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Monday, December 21st, 2009
bostonsteamer
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4:24p Welcome to Jordan (Honeymoon, part 3)
 Hairdryers in Eilat are weird
At the end of my last post, we were about to leave for Jordan. We got an earlier start than we wanted, as we were woken up by thumping bass music at 5am. We took advantage of the time of day, and stayed up to watch the sun rise and book a place to stay in Aqaba (leeching someone's wi-fi). We chose a Dive Village on the South Beach area of town.

Crossing the border into Jordan was fairly easy, considering the history of the two nations. We tried to walk from Eilat to the border, but it turned out to be really far, really dusty, and totally lacking shade. We got a taxi for the last leg and walked across the border, paying our 95NIS crossing fee (used to discourage people from leaving Israel). We walked across this eerie no-mans-land between the two nations, as you can see above. It felt like a prisoner transfer or something from 24.
On the Jordanian side of the border, things weren't as organized. We were passed from window to window, getting the necessary stamps and visas into our passports. We were the only two people not part of a tour group, which we should have taken as a sign.

Finally, we had the documents necessary to get past the guard post and into the dusty parking lot on the Jordanian side of the boarder. Beyond the dirt lot was desert, with a single road stretching eastward as far as the eye could see. We were immediately accosted by taxi drivers, asking where we were going. We took a cab to downtown Aqaba, since we read that cabbing directly to the South Beach is more expensive than splitting it into two voyages.

We were dropped off in downtown Aqaba, and figured we could walk south until we got to South Beach. It wasn't until later we learned that South Beach is actually about 10km south of the city, past a huge industrial area, cargo port, cliffs, and generally a bunch of things that don't make for a relaxing walk. We walked past a large P-Patch that bordered the Red Sea. A promenade along the water took us past idle blue-collar types, people wanting to sell us food or boat excursions, women bathing in full black hijab dress.
 Not where we stayed
There's something I'm having trouble putting into words in a respectful way, and I was tempted to leave it out as to not sound stereotypical or prejudiced. But it impacted our time in Jordan more than any other thing, so as imperfect as it may be, it must be said: every man in Jordan stared at Venessa as if they were just ejected from a spaceship or tossed overboard and could only breathe through their eyeballs if the oxygen would somehow flow out of Venessa's hair, breasts, hips, and legs through their gaze. EVERY man. It was disgraceful and disgusting. The unceasing, unrepentant stare of a man who's been told his entire life that he has no control over his body, his masculinity, his urges, and the only recourse to prevent society from degrading into a grinding mass of rape, orgy, and incest is to have the female form hidden from his view, so he never needs to exercise his own God-given power of restraint. I'm fully aware that this is my own culture speaking, and these men probably thought we were "disgraceful and disgusting," walking around in shorts and showing a modicum of affection towards each other in public. I'm curious what my friends with mid-Eastern backgrounds have to say about this, or those who've also traveled to Arab countries. It was one of those things where you knew what was coming, but reading or hearing about it just couldn't prepare one for actually experiencing it.
 A nice photo to cleanse the palate from the above rant
We took a cab the rest of the way to South Beach, and found the Diver's Village. The Village itself was just across the main highway from the beach, and only about 5 minutes walk up a rather steep hill (which afforded an amazing view of the Red Sea and Egypt, but was unshaded and thus rather uncomfortable to traverse). The hotel area was appointed like a sultan's palace, with low, cushioned seating, lots of tile, and small cabins with a rooftop deck. The A/C was engaged in a fierce battle against the sun, and only upon sundown did the A/C unit win its nightly pyrrhic victory. The cabins themselves are under-priced as loss-leaders for more expensive scuba excursions, so we just enjoyed the views, did a lot of reading, and partook in the amazing breakfasts each morning.

The cabins were set in a slight valley, so on 3 sides was the sight you see above: a small dirt hill with a pack of wild dogs playing, scavenging, and yapping. The area seemed to be in an eternal state of unfinished construction projects. The hotel had a restaurant, where a meal for two can be had for 5JD ($7).

We spent the day snorkeling and swimming. I struck up a conversation with a group of boys, but the language barrier and the ambient noise made it rather futile. They wanted to know if Venessa and I were married, where we're from. Anyone who's spoken to teenagers in a foreign country knows the standard questions. I played the part of the gracious guest and told them that Jordan is the highlight of my trip, and mostly downplayed the Jewish/Israel portion of our voyage.
While Venessa was out snorkeling and I was on the beach, I met a young Israeli couple from Tel Aviv, the only Israelis we encountered in Jordan. I told them we were heading back into Israel in a couple days and we'd be in Tel Aviv the following week. They recommended Gordon Beach and after I thanked them for the recommendation, the woman said "See you there" without a hint of irony.

As the sun set it became bearable to sit outside in an unshaded location. I spent the final minutes of daylight on the rooftop deck, watching the sun set behind the Egyptian hills, and reading a novel in the fading twilight as the dogs' muted howls competed with the constant whoooosh of the wind kicking up sand from one hill to the next.
Tomorrow will be the long trip up to Petra.
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sallysimpleton
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11:47p
December 21 Project. What did you start this year that you're proud of? Ok, just under the wire: Probably the Canvolution I mentioned in the last post. (I'll mention again: the cutesy words killed me this year. I nearly passed on going to Foodportunity based on the name alone, but a dozen friends were going so I sucked it up and went). Earlier in the year, I decided I wanted to figure out how to can pickles & make jam. Pickles are a daily staple & jam just sounded like a good idea. So when I caught wind that some folks were getting together to plan this big ol' event in August with other activities along the way, I jumped in. I helped them with some of their tech issues & did a lot of organizing with them. And I met so many new people this way.
For the big day (August 29th), I went to Leslie Kelly's, where we canned peaches with spices, dilled green beans, and made peach jam. (She wrote about it here and here.)
Ok, so I haven't done it since. It was hot. Then once it wasn't anymore, the rest of life took over. Then, there's only so much food tibadoh & I can consume between us so it's not exactly cost effective...I mean we go through a jar of jam once a quarter. But I have all sorts of great intentions next cucumber season.
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bostonsteamer
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2:18p Best09: #17 - 21 (Word, shop, car ride, person, project)
Word or phrase. A word that encapsulates your year. "2009 was _____."
Kablamo
Shop. Online or offline, where did you spend most of your mad money this year?
A plurality of my money went to a little boutique called Chase Mortgages. Additionally, I spent a lot dining out, and on bike/biathlon stuff.
Car ride. What did you see? How did it smell? Did you eat anything as you drove there? Who were you with?
Driving from Safed through the West Bank to Eilat over a couple days. We ate Hit wafers and fruit stolen from breakfast buffets.
New person. She came into your life and turned it upside down. He went out of his way to provide incredible customer service. Who is your unsung hero of 2009?
I didn't meet too many new people.
Project. What did you start this year that you're proud of?
I'm in the middle of a big project to scan old photos. The secret toothpaste tube project is still ongoing. Owning chickens is kind of a never-ending project. I guess you could say the same for parenting.
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(4 comments | comment on this) Sunday, December 20th, 2009
sallysimpleton
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11:39p December 20
Earlier tonight, motomotoyama & Ms. N spontaneously visited our house before tempting us into viewing Avatar. I'd planned to get my 1st 5 mile run done, in prep for the NOLA Half Marathon in February, but scuttled that. I told her, "This. This is the moment it all goes downhill." Resolve out the window, let's put on some winter weight. Mmm, it's cozy.
I'm amazed we went -- we were just at the movies last night for Up in the Air. I can't think of another time I've seen 2 movies in the theatre on the same weekend. Since 1999, maybe? I liked both. Avatar was good (tibadoh's quote: "The Smurfs are cooler than I remembered!") but Up in the Air was a little rough. But very good.
Okay, onto today's question.
December 20 New person. She came into your life and turned it upside down. He went out of his way to provide incredible customer service. Who is your unsung hero of 2009? I've racked my brain to think of someone who fit either bill--someone who was COMPLETELY new. But what this really made me think of was the people who lived out in imaginary friend-space who are now real-life friends that I love: saraastruc, Seattle Bon Vivant, and The Gastrognome. I met them all in person for the first time this year.
I finally met Sara at a brunch of Vanessa's way back in January. We've known of each other for years online -- I remember the day I stumbled across her online journal at my old job back in Utah. 1998? 99? If you read any of it back when the archives were all there -- well, it's addictive stuff. I hope to read it again someday. Later one night this October, as we were getting ready to head to her house for her Fall Cocktail Party...well, it just made me stop and think how life's funny. I had several good moments like that this year. So grateful Ms. Sara is in my life.
Then: Viv of Seattle Bon Vivant & I got way involved into organizing that Canvolution thing that happened this Summer. (Please forgive the canning name, I just wanted to learn how to make jam & pickles. Not together.). One June afternoon, she realized I was "sally" (we've been flickr contacts since the dawn of time) & she revealed who she was. She's been directly responsible for many fine parties & last weekend's Penny De Los Santos Workshop. She is a perfect hostess.
 Canada takes poutine srsly
The Gastrognome has long been directly responsible for great food leads all over Washington state and Vancouver BC. Way back in May '08, a blog post of hers online led our Chelan camping party to the best Mexican food in Washington State. I met her at one of Traca's potlucks this April where she gave us leads on where to carbo-load the night before the Vancouver Half on my birthday weekend. Pretty soon, Naomi & I were plotting all day eating excursions to Vancouver BC. We're going on another next week & I still need to sit down to document parts of the dozen restaurants we visited the last two trips. At least I got photos up from the first DimSumCouver. We're going with her to Whistler for the first weekend of the Olympics in February. My Nexus pass is all set. Now that it's a go, I'm so excited I can't even tell you.
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(3 comments | comment on this) Saturday, December 19th, 2009
(4 comments | comment on this) Friday, December 18th, 2009
sallysimpleton
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4:23p December 18: Shop
December 18 Shop. Online or offline, where did you spend most of your mad money this year?
This question is all about a place where you spent discretionary income. Looking back, I didn't do much shopping this year for no real reason except I'm more of a homebody than I was. And it didn't feel right. Is it cause the world's changed? I rarely hit up the big boxes anymore - Target, for example. When I did, the great majority of my Target shopping was online.
Considering eCommerce underwrites my life, I'm not sure why it took me so long to get to this point. I prefer online shopping now and don't hem & haw half as much as I did a year ago. The next frontier is probably Amazon Fresh a la Maggi. Tibadoh's workplace was an Amazon Fresh drop-off point, a testing ground, for months before it became an option in Seattle. We liked it during that trial period years ago, but it didn't become a habit. May revisit that.
My discretionary income went to food & travel & not brown-bagging it like I ever planned to do. I developed a severe hot-case habit at PCC -- they changed the way they do their deli & so now I'm in there at least everyday for breakfast eggs if not for lunch. PCC shopping = further proof I'm becoming granola soft, when I used to be totally allergic to the place when it was my only Fremont grocery option.
Let's do one from the first half: December 15 Best packaging. Did your headphones come in a sweet case? See a bottle of tea in another country that stood off the shelves? If Gwen Bell does this again next year, I suggest she change this question. But to play along, my favorite packaging was probably the boxes my Scotch came in.
If you are into Scotch, may I suggest the Laphroaig Quarter Cask?
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bostonsteamer
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3:19p TONIGHT! David Bowie pub crawl
Info has been slow to come in and it's all rather vague, but it sounds like there's going to be a David Bowie themed pub crawl tonight on Capital Hill.
Here's what I know:
The Adventure School will be having a BOWIE BAR CRAWL tonight to pump up Capitol Hill for the Labyrinth NYE Party! Join us in your Bowie finery! If you make it the whole night you get 1/2 off your Labyrinth NYE tickets (which are $125)!
Schedule as follows: 8 – 8:30 Meet the Adventure School 1205 E. Pike (free drinks) 8:30-9 – barrio & tavern Law 1406 12th Ave 9-9:30 Grey Gallery/PURR - 1512 11th Ave 9:30-10 Cha-Cha - 1013 E Pike St 10-10:30 Quinns/MOE - 1001 E. Pike 10:30-11 Rosebud - 719 E. Pike 11:-11:30 Lindas - 707 E. Pine 11:30-12 Kurrant - 606 E. Pine 12:12-30 Capitol Club - 414 E. Pine 12:30-on Eagle (Fringe) - 314 E. Pike
Check in with Cori at 1am for the discount code to get your 1/2 NYE tickets.
*Call the Adventure School hotline for updates throughout the night 206-802-8048
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(1 comment | comment on this) Thursday, December 17th, 2009
sallysimpleton
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10:11p Best 09 Word or Phrase
I was going to do two today but this word prompt kept my brain occupied so long that I haven't made it to another one.
December 17 Word or phrase. A word that encapsulates your year. "2009 was _____."
This whole year can't be boiled down to one word. Even each season was so different from the prior. But there's one word I've been especially enamored with lately: spatchcocked. It was a title I used over on the photo diary. That's what we (er rather, Wheelson) did to the damn turkey at Friends Thanksgiving, thanks to Bittman. If I could liken it to life - there was a lot broken down this year and left in compromising & unattractive positions all splayed out. But in the end, it tasted like the best turkey you've ever had.

For bonus points at Friends Thanksgiving, we got tipsy on Cranberry Gin & Tonics I brought that everyone loved. I recommend. Sidebar: related to good drinks and tea from yesterday -- next summertime, you should all make Strawberry & Basil Tea from Martha. It's killer.
While trying to inspire myself over this riddle, I came across Merriam Webster's 10 favorite word list here. Finally, I have a label for something that slows me down in the AM. I regularly suffer from cognitive displaysia (n): the feeling you have before you even leave the house that you are going to forget something and not remember it until you're on the highway. On another page, all sorts of prior favorites here:
stealth-geek: one that hides nerdy interests while maintaining a normal outward appearance sinspire: to compel one to be creatively wicked (I need to be more sinspired, although the word itself is borderline acceptable to me.) sprog: to go faster than a jog but slower than a sprint
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(2 comments | comment on this) Wednesday, December 16th, 2009
sallysimpleton
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6:53p Best 09, Let's Start Halfway
You may or may not have seen this going around, but there's this #Best09 thing going on right now. For over a week, I've thought about jumping in, even halfway. I will probably cherry-pick like a good cafeteria catholic. And skip back to some of the awesome earlier ideas like best book, best trip or best peace. I've got some things to say on those. This has been a good year & I want to reflect a little bit. Can you believe 2010 is right around the corner? Hit me like a ton of bricks when I started seeing those decade-in-retrospective clips.
In the meantime, let's build some Best 09 posting momentum: Q: December 16: Tea of the year. I can taste my favorite tea right now. What's yours? A: Ginger!
Hmm. Maybe that was a prompt perfect for twitter.
Ginger has been a big hit for me this year. We always have ginger beer around. Dark & Stormies were my go-to most of the year. I finally began respecting the PCC with their awesome Ginger Chocolate Chip cookies. It's not surprising I enjoyed the tea. I liked this Ginger Tea so much I kept sharing with friends and completely ran out. I don't know if I've ever finished a box in the past. It's in a completely nondescript box where the only English part is Ginger or I'd tell you the brand. I doubt there's much variance in straight-ginger tea. Or is there? And I can only get it at H-Mart. But when I do, I'll share some.
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sallysimpleton
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11:48p Keeping the Faith
Some of you may remember that a little over a year ago, a dear friend of mine met a man on a plane and was engaged a short time later. She ended up eloping on the weekend tibadoh & I got engaged. In fact, in the same phone call to tell her the news in those first few days, she confided she was at that moment driving off of the Strip in Vegas. She had just eloped at the same place I had, ~11 years before. She also said she got the drive-thru elopement idea from me. My reply: shouldn't I be your cautionary tale?
Having seen her through several relationships & many hours of talking talking talking about why it wasn't working with this guy or that guy, I was nervous about this dude. She missed out on being the Bridezilla I always thought she'd be. He wasn't her religion (Mormon). He was over a decade younger (wait, that's not really a negative, is it?). And soon to be deployed. I didn't say this at the time, but I was afraid she was going to be heartbroken again. I knew her dream was to have babies. We were 21 when she told me the names of her 4 kids. In recent years, in between boyfriends, she cried about her time running out to have one at all.
Her husband hasn't yet been deployed and she's moved from the southwest to the mid-Atlantic in the interim year. This week, 3 weeks earlier than anticipated and THREE DAYS (O.M.G.) after she sent me the text that labor was beginning, here's her new little girl at just over 4 and a half pounds:
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bostonsteamer
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12:15p Best09: #16 (Tea)
Tea of the year. I can taste my favorite tea right now. What's yours?

I'm not much of a tea drinker (I prefer hot water when I'm cold, or chocolate when I need a stimulant), but when I do drink tea, it's Horny Goat Weed! Come on guys, who doesn't need a dose of kidney yang restorative?
current music: Running, please wait...
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(comment on this) Tuesday, December 15th, 2009
sallysimpleton
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9:20p Christmas Card Time
I received my first friendly (and sparkly!) Holiday card Friday from gfrancie and was inspired to get going. I need something cheerful to do.
Would you like a Holiday Card? Please send me your address! Comments screened.
P.S. I spring for international postage too.
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bostonsteamer
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11:41a Best09: #15 (Packaging. A rant, really)
Best packaging. Did your headphones come in a sweet case? See a bottle of tea in another country that stood off the shelves?
Today's subject is inane and I refuse to answer it. The mere supposition that shiny, landfill-clogging crap temporarily surrounding your material possessions could possibly register a blip in one's recollection of 2009 makes me want to stop doing this entire exercise.
The best packaging is no packaging. Shop at farmers markets and thrift shops! Reuse old stuff! Fix your broken stuff! Barter! Freecycle! Donate old belongings! Plant a garden! Raise farm animals! Meet your neighbors and lend stuff to them!
Screw packaging and screw the mentality that gives packaging equal importance as food, books, and education.
current music: Phoenix - Lisztomania | Powered by Last.fm
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(6 comments | comment on this) Monday, December 14th, 2009
bostonsteamer
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2:03p Best09: #14 (Rush)
Rush. When did you get your best rush of the year?

Not sure I can pick just one. Here are a few times I had an elevated heart rate, in the "thrilling" kind of way:
- Getting married (the actual ceremony part) - Biathlon races (ready, set, go!) - Marrying Copper and James (the actual ceremony part) - Quitting Skytap, starting at Robot Co-op ("Ross, do you have a minute?") - Performing at Purim Spiel (the band hits their first note, and it's do or die)
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